Paris has long been known as a culinary mecca, with its iconic brasseries and Michelin-starred restaurants drawing food lovers from around the world. But in recent years, the dining scene in the City of Light has been evolving, with a new generation of Parisians embracing a more global and open outlook when it comes to food.
One chef who is at the forefront of this culinary shift is Calum Franklin, the London-based chef known as the king of pies. Franklin made the journey across the Channel earlier this year to open Public House in Paris, a restaurant that serves up traditional British fare like Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, and pies to the French elite in the heart of the legal and financial district near Place Vendôme.
Franklin’s decision to open Public House in Paris was not just about proving a point to the French or making a bold statement. It was a long-held ambition for the chef, who had always regretted not taking the opportunity to work in the city when he was younger. When Groupe Bertrand, a prestigious French hospitality group, approached him with the idea, Franklin jumped at the chance to bring a taste of British cuisine to Paris.
The menu at Public House features a mix of traditional British dishes that have been adapted to suit the French palate. While some dishes, like savory pastries and hot pies, were an easy sell to Parisians who are accustomed to eating cold savory pastries, others required a bit of experimentation. For example, Franklin adapted the classic Scotch egg by encasing it in a soft black pudding, a variation that was well-received by locals but less so by expats.
In addition to adapting dishes to suit the French palate, Franklin also had to navigate the challenges of sourcing ingredients in Paris. While the quality and variety of French ingredients were impressive, some items like Coleman’s mustard powder and pickled walnuts proved to be hard to find. Franklin even went as far as bringing pickled walnuts in his suitcase from a hobbyist producer in the south of France to meet the demand at Public House.
Despite the challenges of sourcing ingredients and adapting dishes, Franklin’s efforts have been well-received by the French media and diners alike. One TV news report even followed him from produce markets to the kitchen, showcasing his culinary creations and the process behind them. The positive reception from the French media is a testament to the changing attitudes towards British cuisine in Paris and the growing interest in global flavors among younger Parisians.
As Franklin continues to expand his culinary empire with a new project launching in Knightsbridge, he reflects on the joy of training up an entirely French kitchen brigade to craft classic English dishes at Public House. With the support of his talented chef Mamadou Meité, Franklin is confident in his ability to oversee the new restaurant while still making occasional visits to Paris to ensure the success of Public House.
Public House Paris is a testament to the evolving dining scene in Paris and the growing appreciation for global flavors among the French elite. With its innovative menu, traditional British dishes, and charming ambiance, Public House is a must-visit destination for food lovers looking to experience a taste of Britain in the heart of Paris. So, next time you find yourself in the City of Light, be sure to stop by Public House for a Scotch egg or a pie au bœuf braisé à la Guinness – you won’t be disappointed.